Bavarian Christkindlmarkts--Fuessen and Kempten

We decided to spend one more day and night in the gorgeous Ammergauer Alpen region of Bavaria. The towns in this region are Oberammergau, Ettal, Unterammergau, Saulgrub, Altenau, Wurmansau, Bad Kohlgrub and Bad Baversoien. 

The Garmisch, Fuessen and Kempten markets are on the list for today.

On our way to Garmisch, we stopped at the grocery store and bought some local Christmas goodies.  We then drove across the street to the Getranken Market (drinks).  We bought some local Ettal Monastery liquor.  When we returned to our car a note was on the driver's door saying that someone would like to buy our car.  Now, really?  Marianne was very suspicious and we quickly drove off.  We felt that someone saw the loot we just bought in the car, tried to open it, and put the note there just in case we saw them trying to get in.

Somehow we got sidetracked in Garmisch.  So, we decide to go to the market in Fuessen.  We drove there via Reutte, Austria.  The road we took went past Linderhof and through the mountains south into Austria.  As a precaution, the road had salt and gravel on it.  We are lucky that it is only drizzling.  In Reutte we stop at a McCafe and enjoy Schwarzwalder kuchen and a cappuccino.  I really do have Marianne convinced that this is the best--and it is.

In Fuessen, we find a handicapped parking space very easily and walk to the Advent Market.  It is small, however, the setting is really pretty--in the courtyard of  Kloster St. Mang.

Market Inside the Abbey's Courtyard

Entrance to Fuessen Weihnachtsmarkt

Stall at Fuessen Market

Just as we entered the square, the church bells started ringing.  The fronts of these stalls are very decorative each one having a different look, or theme.  It is very quaint and festive. It's a very small market of about 30 stalls that is only located within the walls of the former abbey's courtyard.  There are a lot of handcrafted items along with some meats and, of course, gluhwein.



I walk out of the market with an empty gluhwein mug to add to my collection.

On previous trips, I have never been in the Stadtmitte of Fuessen. It was nice to stroll through this small town.  It has several pedestrian-only shopping streets and the buildings are ornate.  At the intersection of several streets stands a very large, live Christmas tree.  I guess it will be lit later in the evening. 

Kempten Market

We locate the A7 Autobahn and head west to Kempten.  Once again in the Stadtmitte (city center) we find a close parking space and walk to the Rathaus.  The entrance is similar to Salzburg with a large sign and lights strung between the buildings.

There are many different items for sale, however, none of the traditional Christmas decorations.  It's interesting how these markets do not carry those items.  They have handcrafted soaps, candles, and wooden ornaments.  Also, leather purses and jewelry made from the local stones (rose quartz, amethyst).  There are a few food stalls with smoked meats, large Christmas cookies and chocolates. The gluhwein stalls do not have a special mug for their Kempten market.  So, I walk out empty handed.  Steve won't believe that! 

Kemptener Weihnachtsmarkt

Kempten Market with Rathaus in Background

Returning to Unterammergau and on the outskirts of town, we stop at Luzia's Stueberl for dinner.  Josef, whom I met on the hill yesterday during my walk, is there with his friends Hans and Sasha (who speaks good English).  After our wiener schnitzel dinner mitt salat und spaetzle, we sit down with them and talk for a while.  Josef and Hans have a sniff of tobacco here and there.  I guess it's something they do in Bavaria, instead of smoking a cigarette. Hans was on his 4th very large beer.  He said he averages 6. I enjoy a small, white beer with lemonade mixed in.  It was actually very good and I don't drink beer. It was nice talking to the locals.  They REALLY enjoy their time in the restaurants and their bier!  We return to the apartment at 11:00 pm. 

We're off  to Munich, for sure, tomorrow.  Have to start heading north for my final night in Rudesheim on Tuesday evening.  Guten Nacht!

Relaxing Day in Unterammergau; Ettal Christmas Market

It is another beautiful, sunny day.  It's actually very warm here for this time of year.  Our hostess, Marianne, said that even if it did snow, it will not last because the ground is too warm.  This area is usually covered with snow by now.  I'm sure Herr Mueller is disappointed because he should be giving sleigh rides by now.

The man of the house is tending to his wood pile.  I took a few pictures of the wood splitting machine he uses.  My dad will like seeing these.

Splitting Firewood

After breakfast, while Marianne used my computer, I took off for a walk in the hills.  There is a walking path right by the house that climbs rather steeply in a wooded area.  Here's the farmhouse from my viewpoint.

Bauernhof (farmhouse) Down Below

                                               

While I was walking, Herr Josef came along in his tractor.

Herr Josef

He knows our hostess, Marianne, and mentions how hard she works on her farm.  Marianne was telling us that the farm house was built 20 years ago.  They owned the land, however, it was hard for them to get permission to build the house on their farm.  The Germans usually live in town and go out to work on their farm. 

We left the house at 1 pm to go to the Ettal Christmas Market.  Our first stop was at the Die Schaukaserei, the Kloster Ettal cheese factory.  The cows at our Bauernhof supply the milk to make the Ettal cheese at this factory.  Of course, I had to buy some.

Marianne drops me off at the market while she attempts to get her computer fixed.  The market has an admission fee of 4 Euros.  Most of the stalls have handcrafted items, a lot of which are for the garden or to decorate outside for Christmas.  I've seen some of the items at previous markets and the prices here are a lot higher.  However, I do find a nice colorful winter scarf for 12.50--of course, it's made in India for that price.  Oh, well, not everything can be made in Germany.

Ettal Christmas Market at the Monastery

A tour of the Basilica is going to begin at 3 p.m. and I take my place among a tour group.  Standing next to me is a tour director.  She said she'll translate the German for me.

Interior of Kloster Ettal Monastery

The Basilica is massive.  Inside, from the floor to the top of the dome, is 17 meters.  The style is Baroque with several paintings on the walls and ceiling. The painting behind the altar is from Italy.  Byzantine Monks live here at the monastery and produce, and sell, their own cheese and beer.  After an introduction to the Basilica by a Monk, an organist and a brass band played Advent songs.  Marianne finds me among the large crowd and afterwards we head back to Unterammergau to eat dinner at Landgasthof Stern.  We each had a great German salad and Jagerschnitzel with a cream sauce for dinner.  It was delicious, however, it was too rich for my stomach.

We return to the monastery, however, we hear only the end of this evening's Gregorian chant.  We get back to the apartment early.  Tomorrow we're on our way to Munich and Augsburg.  I really hate to leave this comfortable apartment.

Bavaria and All of Its Charms

Our Farmhouse in Unterammergau

I awake with the sun starting to peek over the mountains. (My apartment is in the top right of the house with the balcony looking right at the mountains)  It's only 8:30 and now it's time for a walk.  I make my way to the farm road and go right into the next little dorf (town) and group of farms.  I have always been intrigued at the layout of the traditional German farm house.  The front of the house is where the family lives and the rear of the house is where the livestock lives.  It is one complete structure. The family where we are staying was not home today.  I hope my hostess can take me around their farm tomorrow.

On the way back to the house, I see an open door to a small livestock hut and the horses inside are wanting me to come in and say hi.  These four horses are in their stalls chomping away at the hay their owner just gave them.  Herr Leis Mueller comes back into the hut and I greet him and ask if I can take pictures and what their names are.  I say hi to Fritz and Pia as they nudge my jacket.

Pia and Herr Leis Mueller

They are obviously very friendly and are used to people.  Herr Mueller then indicates he's going to let them out into the pasture and opens each one of their stalls.  These are large shouldered, strong horses which are bred for transporting wood from the forest and for pulling sleighs for sleigh rides.  When our hostess, Marianne, saw this picture of Herr Mueller, she thought that maybe he's already had a schnapps or two.   We told her it was early morning, however, she said that doesn't make a difference.   

Upon returning to the apartment, Marianne comes out of her room all dressed and ready to go.  What a change from the night before.

Typical German Breakfast

We find our breakfast room across the hall and enjoy the typical, but always wonderful, breakfast of a variety of brotchens, meat, cheese, yogurt, granola, soft boiled egg, fresh homemade jams and tea/coffee.

Our Breakfast Room

Marianne finds out I have internet and gets in touch with all of her friends and family.  I relax on my balcony and take in the views.  Every once in a while I hear the high screeching sound of the local train as it passes through the village down below.  You can also see people walking on the wanderwegs.

View from the Balcony

On our way out of our village, we stop and visit with some of the locals--cows that is.  This bull came right up to the electric fence to greet us.

Good Looking Bull

Marianne wants to visit Garmisch and go to some of the places she and her late husband, Al, used to go to.  We stop by the American Army Hotel Edelweiss.  Then we drive to the Eibsee Hotel which is on Lake Eibsee under the Zugspitze mountain.  We have a lovely, late lunch and try to decide what we are going to do today.  Garmisch's Christmas Market does not start until tomorrow, 2 December.  We're on our way back to Innsbruck.  On the side streets of  the market are several, two story high, fantasy Giants.

The Giant Haymon

Giant ?

Innsbruck Christkindlemkt

On our way, we drive through Lermoos.  During this time of year the town is shut down.  It is their shoulder season.  The restaurants and hotels will reopen the middle of December.  So far, this year, there is no snow.  They hope to get some next week after I leave.  It has been nice that we haven't had to deal with it.


We return to our apartment rather late.  We've had another full day.  Tomorrow Ettal's market opens in the courtyard of the Monastery.

Innsbruck Christmas Market

Salzburg to Innsbruck Christmas Market

Haus Ballwein, Salzburg

After another wonderful breakfast and our goodbyes to Frau Ballwein, we head south on road #20 towards Kitzbuehl.  We are driving on a red road that goes through the mountains and winds through the towns.  It's nice to get off the autobahn and drive the country roads.  Outside of one town the Polizei are sitting on the side of the road.  In Europe, if you are caught speeding they don't bother to pull you over, they just take a picture of your license and then send you a "love letter".

Kitzbuehl, Austria

Unfortunately, upon our arrival in Kitzbuehl we discover that their market starts at 4 p.m. and it is now 12:30.  We walk through the town and then continue on towards Garmisch.

Goldenes Dachl, Innsbruck

Since Innsbruck is on the way, we divert ourselves to another market.  I am driving and we do o.k. getting to the city center and finding a handicap parking space.  This particular market is in the area of the Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl), Innsbruck.  There are several other markets throughout the city.  I get a cappuccino at McD's and we send a few e-mails on their stand alone computer.  Outside, the market is beginning to get busy as it is getting dark.  It's always more festive at night with the Christmas lights on.  It's a beautifully lit market and has some interesting characters "hanging" around.

This Guy is Hanging Out (Literally)  His Staff Seems to be the Only Thing Touching the Ground
Look up this Trick on You Tube (India yogi) 

A Gentle Giant

Marianne and I bought some beautiful jewelry from a gentleman who lives in Rome.  Each piece is unique using hand picked stones from the area.  He makes necklaces, rings and bracelets.  

There was also some cloisenne ornaments, traditional ornaments and lit up advent stars, and, of course, gluhwein stands.  There were not a lot of stands in this area.  However, there are more markets spread throughout the city.

The lights throughout the market were beautiful.  Many depicted what Innsbruck is famous for--their crystal.  The crystal chandeliers hanging above the streets, the lit up trees, and the crystal formed with lights added a lot of  "sparkle" to the market.  

Returning to the car, we decide to continue to Unterammergau, Bavaria, where I have made reservations starting the night of December 1st.  We are hoping that our rooms are available a day early.  It's a bit of a drive on a red road through the mountains.  We pass Garmisch, Ettal and Oberammergau and, like usual, get lost in the dark.  Our pension is actually a farmhouse on the outskirts of town.  After asking for directions from a resident, we find our way.  At the Innsbruck market, Marianne had enjoyed a bowl of Rosti potatoes and now they are not agreeing with her stomach!

Good, greasy rosti potatoes.  Umm, good!

We literally made it to our rooms just in time. Hope she's better after some rest.

We are staying at a Bauernhof--a farm.  Not sure what kind of farm it is.  I hope they have cows.  I love cows.

They do have cows!

We'll see in the morning where we are.  Our rooms are in an apartment.  We each have our own room with balcony, own bathroom and it's all together with a small kitchen.  Very nice and, of course, cozy with our down comforters and pillows.  There is also a flat screen TV in German, of course.  No, Steve, I'm not going to turn on the TV!

Since Marianne is not feeling well, I'm not going to leave and get dinner.  Our hostess brings me some hot tea, a basket of bread and a plate of wurst & cheese.  She also allows me to get on the farm's internet and I am able to catch up with the family and this blog.  However, now it's time to get some sleep, especially since I didn't sleep well last night.  So, once again, Guten Nacht.

Salzburger Christkindl-Markt

Hans, Marianne and Erika with a Devil Mask on the Door

After a wonderful breakfast, Marianne said she would like to drive into the city and find her friends, Hans and Erika. She hasn't seen them for 10 years. I much prefer the bus as opposed to driving and paying for parking, but she will not consider public transportation. After a while of driving and searching, we find her friends and visit with them in their old, rustic, but very beautiful, home. They speak perfect English and are very proper and friendly. Hans was a consulate for Chile and attained a masters degree at USC at which time he met Marianne's husband, Al.  Erika and Hans are getting their large room upstairs ready for their annual St. Nicholas party.  Devil and Santa masks will adorn the walls. Here is some information on this tradition. 

 

"In Austria a strange and frightening creature, Krampus, is usually with St. Nicholas. This devil figure, often in chains, is dressed in fur with a scarey mask and a long red tongue. Krampus carries a wooden stick or switches to threaten children who misbehave or do not know their lessons."
                              - Saint Nicholas Center; Discovering the Truth About Santa Claus  

As we drive away, Hans waves goodbye.  We had a wonderful visit.

Before we start some serious shopping at the market, we have a lovely lunch at St. Peter's Stiftskeller. The dining rooms are down below in a very old, rustic cellar. The atmosphere was unbelievable and so was our schnitzel with parsleyed potatoes.  We returned to the market with our shopping list in hand.

Lunch at St. Peter's Stiftskeller--a 1,000 Year Old Restaurant

Outside St. Peter Stiftskeller Restaurant

The Salzburg Market is large and beautiful . The stalls have a lot of room around them and are large--filled with a variety of goodies. There are a lot of different wares for sale. 

Puff Pastry Pretzels

The large variety of food looks and smells delicious--Bratwurst, puff pastry pretzels in many flavors (chocolate, cinnamon, etc), and kaiserschmappil which is a waffle chopped up and mixed with nuts, raisins and  a drizzle of chocolate on top.  I had to enjoy this specialty.

Kaiserschmappil

The traditional natural straw Austrian Christmas ornaments, large puff pastry pretzels, Salzburg vinegars and olive oils and, of course, gluhwein is just a sample of what is for sale. There are several booths with glass and painted egg ornaments.  If you can only go to one market, this is the one to go to.  It was lovely.  The prices are also very reasonable. 

Salzburger Christkindl-Markt

At 5 pm we enjoyed listening to a choir sing advent songs in front of the Dom.  There is always something special about beautiful voices singing in such a historical setting.  This is a wonderful treat.  On the other side of the market, there is a small ice skating rink that is open to the stars and the beautiful evening lights of Salzburg. 

Choir Outside of Dom Cathedral

We left Salzburg and decided to search for the Silent Night Chapel which is in the small town of Oberdorf outside of Laufen on the north side of Salzburg. It was not open, however, I took some wonderful pictures of this small, historic church. If you happen to be here on Christmas Eve, you can join a choir singing a song which spread from this very spot to the entire world. The local priest, Josef Mohr, wrote the words in 1816 and Franz Xavier Gruber composed the famous tune two years later. “Silent Night” spread first throughout Europe and then to the United States and the world. 

Silent Night Chapel in Oberdorf

We returned to our pension at 8 p.m.  I was so tempted to take the bus back into town.  However, in the back of my mind I could hear Steve saying "are you sure you can get the last bus back?"  So, instead I went for another late evening walk along Moosstrasse in the 0 degree centigrade cool night.  Frost was forming on the leaves along the walkway, the stars were bright and there were Christmas lights here and there.  Back at the B&B I enjoy sitting outside in the gazebo and hearing nothing but the church bells ring every quarter hour.  

Lovely Tree Lined Moostrasse

Chaos in Nurnberg Before Going to Regensburg Market

Eva's House

We had a bit of a rough start today. Hoping to leave Eva's house by 9:00 and then Nuremburg by 10:00 was wishful thinking. I awoke at 8:45 and Marianne had a lovely breakfast put together. We decided that leaving the house at 9:30 would be good. Then it all began. Marianne could not find her cell phone, make-up kit or gloves. We searched everywhere and could not locate these items. While gathering her stuff to load into the car, she was drying her clothes. We then had to figure out how to open the dryer door--it was not obvious. After several minutes, we were successful!  We then called Eva to try and see if Marianne had left her cell phone in her Audi—no such luck. After searching for a while, we give up. 

With the car finally loaded and locking the home's gate behind us (we don't have a key), we leave for Marianne's bank. However, she must stop in stadtmitte to buy makeup because she can't go in the bank without it. We park, illegally, in front of a Sparkasse bank & Marianne runs off telling me not to leave (11:10) Ten minutes later, an expressionless, female parking guard with black long hair and bangs (looks like the wicked witch from the North) shows up and is inputting the car's license into her hand-held gadget. I try to explain that my friend is in the bank—wish she was! She doesn't believe me and I proceed to start the car and leave. Mind you, I have only moved the car forward and backward in front of Eva's house earlier that day--I haven't driven this stick shift car yet. I put it in reverse hoping that it does go backward and not into the Polizei woman.  I'm successful and  nervously circle around and around the streets hoping that Marianne emerges soon.  I see "the mean female guard" several more times giving me the "eye"—Bitch, I mean Witch! After circling many times, I finally see Marianne looking for me and pull up. She now has to maneuver the city streets and noon traffic to get to her bank before 12 noon at which time they close for lunch for two hours (it's 11:35). We find “her” bank, park the car illegally and she proceeds to walk to the front (11:46). And it's a Sparkasse. She comes out at 12:30 and announces she was successful in withdrawing some money after being hassled about it. That was too close!

Now we have the "moola" but still don't have Marianne's missing "stuff".  We're now thinking of returning to the house to continue our search, however, we're locked out.  I go into a Lidl market to get a coat hanger while Marianne is searching her bags.  Upon my return, she finds her stuff.  Thank goodness.  We can now continue on our trip.  Yeah!!

I get behind the wheel and hit the autobahn (not telling how fast) towards Regensburg.  Driving towards the city center (stadmitte) we make a quick stop at McD's. Yeah—a McCafe!  The McCafes in Europe are so much nicer and offer high quality coffee drinks and pastries at great prices. 

Who could pass this up for 3.99?

Regensburg Market w/Dom in Background

It was Marianne's first time and she loved it. We had a cappuccino with a torte for 3.99 euros. I had a tiramisu torte, Marianne had a apple torte.  Yes, spin buddies, I'm not holding back.

Laser Cut Wood Ornament

Marianne and I at Regensburg Gluhwein Stand

The Regensburg market was lovely. I bought two large, embroidered stars that light up and hang from the ceiling, a Regensburg wooden, cut-out ornament and gluhwein with a mug. 

German Advent Christmas Stars

We then continued driving to Salzburg. It was a long drive going south past Munich and then east towards Vienna. Finding Moosstrasse was quite a feat in the dark and without a GPS, but we made it. Frau Ballwein was gracious as always and our rooms are lovely. It was still early, so I walked in the frosty, cold weather for an hour. Love the cool air on my face. So fresh.  I even had a dog with me for part of my walk.