A Long Flight and Long Day Home

Hotel Schwann

I had another sleepless night. Hotel Schwann is located along the highway and the constant noise of cars is disruptive. I was also checking and re-checking my packing. At 6:44 a.m. Marianne and I were off to the airport. The reason for staying in this area is that it is an easy and fast drive (38 km) to the Frankfurt airport. When you get on the autobahn, you just have to follow the signs showing a plane (an international symbol). Driving towards terminal 2 (for American Airlines), I make a quick right turn into the rental car garage. Everything goes smoothly. I say “goodbye” to Marianne and stand in line to check in my luggage and get my tickets. After standing in that short line, an American Airlines rep says “ma'm, next time you can go to the priority check in since you are platinum”. I had Steve's card out and visible. Because of that special status, I checked in my luggage for free. Maybe they didn't see the name on the 2 million mile card. Thanks, once again, hubby! I requested a middle of three seats and asked that the others be blocked. Yes, that can be arranged. She told me no one ever requests the middle seat.

I'm here very early, however, I find some fellow travelers (they were on my flight to Frankfurt) to share our experiences of the past two weeks. An electronic/computer glitch delays our 11 hour flight. However, my layover is 6 hours so I should be fine gathering my luggage, going through customs and transferring to another terminal.  

The international terminal at the Dallas airport has been renovated.  Unfortunately, there must have been several international planes that just arrived because the passport check line was extremely long.  It was a 45 minute wait and they were not letting connecting flight passengers go to the front of the line.  Luckily, I had a long layover.  

I gathered my large, check in luggage and proceeded towards customs.  Why I walked past that cute little beagle I will never know.  He needed to be avoided!  Yes, he sniffed out my salami and I was requested to open my bag and find the three Santa Salamis I was trying to bring back as gifts.  Oh, well, I guess I should have put them in zip-loc bags.  I had no problem bringing back my hard cheese and my vinegars.  

The flight into Orange County was exhausting.  However, that's a small price to pay to be able to enjoy a vacation in Europe.  I already miss it. 
 

Mainz Christmas Market and Revisiting Our First Home

There is always something special about returning to where you first started your married life together. So much started here in Mainz Gonsenheim. Steve was a new Armor Officer and I was a Commanding General's Secretary. We had our first dogs, Lady and Alex, and we left here pregnant with our daughter, Melissa. Our parents were able to visit us and we enjoyed sharing our travels to different countries and cultures with them. All of this happened 35 years ago. How could that be—it seems like only yesterday. I drove around our city and knew where to go and how to get there. It hasn't changed much. You still take the Shierstiner bridge from Wiesbaden to Mainz. The Dom is where it's been for hundreds of years and the Hauptbaunhof hasn't moved or been renovated. Sure, the city has expanded and the ethnicity is somewhat different, but it is still Mainz.

Driving from Wurzburg to Oestrich-Winkel, up towards Rudesheim, was an easy drive. We're staying right on the Rhine River at Hotel Schwan. It's a very old hotel with lots of character. 

Restaurant Gruener Baum

Since their restaurant was closed, I walked up the street to Gruener Baum. I had a wonderful, final meal of Wiener Schnitzel. Upon ordering it, I could hear Norbert in the kitchen pounding it thin. Since I walked here, I was also able to enjoy a glass of local halp trocken Riesling wine—my favorite. Kerstin and Norbert inherited this very old structure and have spent a lot of money renovating it. It's a mere 400 years old and has been in their family since 1935. 



St. Martin Church Doors



On my walk back to the hotel, I went past several old, gabled houses and the towns's beautiful church. 

St. Martin

I took many pictures and suddenly felt ill about leaving. However, I'm already planning, in my head, when I will be returning. After all, miles need to be used up before they may be taken away!

Earlier in the day, we went to the the Mainz Christmas Market which was far beyond my expectations. Lights were strung from end to end forming a circle in the center.  It was a beautiful effect.

The market is in the Dom Platz and very large but not overwhelming. There was a nice variety of goods for sale. The traditional Christmas decorations (with good prices) along with items for gift giving.  And, of course, lots of gluhwein and hot liquor drinks to enjoy. 

On one end of the market, there was a enormous candle pyramind, while on the other end was a spinner. 

The eleven metre (36') high Christmas pyramid is from the Ore Mountains in eastern Germany. Apart from the typical figures, such as an angel and Santa Claus, figures from the history of the city of Mainz are also represented. Thus Gutenberg and the Roman commander Drusus also go round in the circle here. You cannot overlook the pyramid, it stands directly at the centre of Höfchen square.

Nativity Scene Next to Dom

A particularly vivid representation of the Christmas story is the hand-carved crib which has been standing in front of the Romanesque St. Gotthard's chapel next to the cathedral since 1981. The life-sized figures made of limewood are unique in Europe and do not just impress children.

By the stage, St. Nicholas was greeting the children and giving out goodie bags.

I purchased a few last minute items and needed to purchase a larger, check-in suitcase at Woolworth., It's very basic, but will get the job done—transporting all my stuff. I guess I can take my clothes back after all.

Thanks to Marianne for her driving and deciphering German signs and myself for my planning and organizing, I believe we had a fairly successful and fun trip. We drove 2,816 kilometers and went to 14 Weihnachten Markets—Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Nuremberg, Bamberg, Regensburg, Salzburg, Innsbruck (twice), Ettal, Fuessen, Kempten, Garmisch, Munchen, Ingolstadt, Wurzburg and Mainz. . We purchased a lot, drank a little, ate and tasted here and there and laughed along the way. We enjoyed many celebrations and performances for the Advent Season. That is what Christmas is all about. Yes, we had a bumpy ride along the way, however, nothing is ever perfect. It is all a learning experience.

Now, I better get some sleep. I have a 10:30 flight and need to leave early so that I can call my husband from the airport. Otherwise, he may send the Polizei out to find me. Guten Nacht.

Wurzburger Weihnachtsmarkt

We each had a rough night in our tiny, very basic attic rooms at the Braugastof Trompete. In the middle of the night, the rain was pinging on my slanted, attic window above my head. Out of pure exhaustion, I must have fallen asleep. I was again awoken to a light drizzle early in the morning.  I will only stay here again out of desperation.

Braugastof Trompete

Nothing else to do but go to breakfast and drink lots of tea. The coffee was much too strong. The breakfast buffet was nice and I attempted to get on the free internet. We have a time limit of 20 minutes.

We continued on the yellow road, #13, towards Ansbach. Marianne wants to visit her Aunt's grave somewhere southeast of Ansbach. We're not sure how to get there, all she knows is the town.  So we ask several passerby's on the streets. Most Germans are very helpful when we ask directions and we ask for them a lot. Of course, the Germans in the cars behind us are not happy when we stop.


On the way, we pass by a really lovely old, walled town Wolfgang Von Eschenbach. 

Wolfgang Von Eschenbach

The tors, mote and wall are all intact. There are many gabbled homes and the church steeple is very oranate and very colorful with tiles. We stop for a few pictures and then continue our search for the Aunt's grave.  After awhile, we do locate the graveyard and find her Aunt's gravestone.

We've decided to see the Wurzburg market but we need to find somewhere to stay so that we don't end up in another dive. We drove on the outskirts of Wurzburg with no luck. Back towards the city, we check into Hotel Lamm in Hochberg a nice hotel with really nice prices—62 euros including breakfast for a single room--Ouch!



Wuerzburger Weihnachtsmarkt



After checking in, we find our way to the market. It's really quite lovely and extends into several pedestrian-only zones. The backdrop being the Dom.

The stalls are nicely decorated with lights all around and each one designed and customized for their products. The last several markets have been this way—Munich, Ingolstadt, and Fuessen. Salzburg, Nurnberg, and Regensburg had the basic green stalls with red and white stripes on their roofs. The gluhwein stalls were very busy, like usual. Here, like in Ingolstadt, some stalls were actually walk-in stores. Maybe because of the rain and the fact that these merchants are at the market until 23 December.



Wurzburg Market with Cathedral in Background



On our way back to the car, we stop in a very nice restaurant for dinner. Marianne orders trout that is known for this region and I have a traditional dish of wurst, mashed potatoes and sauerkraut. Have to enjoy at least one Slovak meal.

When we returned to the hotel, we did some pre-packing. Okay, it's definitely going to be interesting. Do I really need to bring my clothes home?  I may be wearing a lot of these clothes on the plane!

After the packing realization, we walk back to the hotel in the snow. It is so pretty. This is the real stuff, not like at Disneyland, Lauren. However, as soon as I got my camera to take a picture, it was raining.  
 



Street Outside Hotel Lamm, Hochberg



Better get some sleep—early day tomorrow.

Ingolstadt Christmas Market

After enjoying the Munich market, we continue north on the A9 autobahn towards Nuremburg. We are going to stop at the Ingolstadt market and then find somewhere to stay in the area. This market is under the towers and lights of the Schloss, or castle. Before entering the market, I could tell this one was going to be very special.

Ingolstadt

Ingolstadt

The stalls are very decorative and all lit up under the eves. It really adds to the ambiance of the market. One stall, a candy shop, is large and full of goodies. It's set up like a store. There are several gluhwein stands, traditional Christmas décor stands, soups & spices stands. There is also a stall with ceramic plates that were handmade and painted in Cannes, France. Very pretty, however, we're just about at our max in what we can take home.

We find a dive about 25 km north of Ingolstadt. We are staying at Gasthof Trompete--a 400 year old establishment.  In the beautiful, wood carved restaurant downstairs, I have a glass of Chianti and attempt to get internet. Connecting from the room is impossible.  I'll try tomorrow morning from the breakfast room downstairs.

Munich Christkindlmarkt

Muenchener Christkindlmarkt

Munich

After our visit to the Garmisch market, we head north on the autobahn to Munich. We secure a handicapped parking space close to the market and we make our way through the market straight to McCafe for a hot cappuccino and kuchen.  It is windy and cold outside and we need to warm up before strolling the market.  

Back down at the market we continue our search for that special ornament of the Neuschwanstein Castle.  As we are listening to the choir and the brass band perform from the balcony of the Altes Rathaus in the Marienplatz, I spot a castle ornament at the stall next to me. As I purchase that special ornament, I think about how beautiful it will look hanging on my tree.  I have visited Neuschwanstein on many different occasions and this ornament will bring back a lot of memories while I decorate my tree.     

Neuschwanstein Castle Ornament

Choirs and Brass Band in Rathaus

The brass band, the all male choir and the women's choir with a guitar was a wonderful treat.  The brass band had a hard time keeping in tune and holding onto their music because of the wind.  The large Christmas tree next to the performers was swaying back and forth.  However, the music and the lights on the tree added to the ambiance of the market.  It's a market with a wide variety of traditional decorations along with lots of food, candy and, of course, gluhwein.  It was not a craftsman, handmade wares type of market.  It encompasses the entire pedestrian zone--very long with lots of walking.  Many of Germany's favorite stores line this car-free street. 

At the far end of the market, the Kripperlmarkt, one of the largest in Germany, specializes in cribs and other Nativity accessories.  It has been part of this market since the mid-18th century.  

The Kripperlmarkt has everything you need to start, or add, to your own authentic manger.  Each booth has their own Italian carvers and, therefore, the figurines are depicted and painted differently.

We are now on our way north on the A9 autobahn towards Nuremburg.  We have decided to visit the Ingolstadt Market.

Garmisch Christmas Market

After a beautiful and inspiring celebration in Unterammergau, we packed up our car and said "goodbye" to our farmhouse accommodations.  We decided to drive back to Garmisch to see their market before heading out to Munchen. Driving into town you could see that fresh snow had fallen overnight on the Zugspitze. Very picturesque. 

Fresh Snow on Zugspitze

Garmisch Salami & Meats

Garmisch Market

Laser Cut Wood Ornament

The Garmisch market was very small, about 20 stalls, and set amongst the more modern town buildings--not as picturesque as I would have thought. Their wares were handmade and the stalls were small and rustic. The salamis are so tempting, however, you cannot bring these back into the States.

Garmisch

 



I purchase a laser cut wooden ornament for Garmisch and after a brief visit and walking through town, we hit the autobahn and set our sights for Stadmitte Munich.

Traditional Bavarian Hochzeitslader Celebration in Unterammergau

Our hostess, Marianne, is singing and performing this morning in the town's Catholic Church, St. Nicholas.  Before the mass, a Hochzeitslader gathering is going to take place in the center of town. These gentlemen, basically a male yentl, perform the custom in the villages of communicating between the two couples' parents that want to get married.  

Here is another explanation for the Hochzeitslader.

The 'Hochzeitslader' is a bavarian style wedding planner.
He takes care for the course of the wedding and supports the bride and groom in the the wedding planning. On the wedding day he is the master of ceremony and if applicable a morderator. He knows all Bavarian wedding traditions. For example he organizes the order for the procession for leaving the church. He can be recognized by a cane that is decorated with four colored ribbons, a red one for love, a blue one for faith, a green one for hope and a white one for virginity.

This Bavarian tradition has an official inviter dressed in fancy clothes decorated with ribbons and flowers going door to door in the town extending a personal rhyming invitation to the invited guests.  Guests accept by pinning one of the ribbons to the Hochzeitslader hat and by offering a drink or two at each stop.  If there are numerous guests and if the Hochzeitslader accepts the offered drinks, he may need a day or two to complete his duties.

These men march, with a band, through a chosen Bavarian town once a year. This year Unterammergau was selected. Hochzeitsladers from all over Bavaria come to participate in this special celebration.

A large marching band escorted these men to the church.  During mass, Marianne (our hostess) performed along with six others in the choir loft of the church.

Austrian Hackbrett

Marianne, Our Farm Hostess (3d from left) Along with Choir Performers

Marianne sang and played the hackbrett, a traditional Bavarian stringed instrument played with two small hammers. The gal beside her also played the hackbrett, one gentleman played the guitar, another gentleman played the zither and two other women sang. They all wore traditional Bavarian costumes.  Their beautiful voices amongst the tones of the hackbrett, zither and guitar was beautiful.
 
The mass was based on the sanctity of marriage. The inside of the church is in baroque style with white and gold reliefs and paintings on the ceiling and walls.


Interior of St. Nicholas

Behind the altar is the painting of St. Nicholas for which the church is named after.  Notice the smoke from the incense.

Following mass, all of the men posed for a portrait and then marched through the middle of town, again, with the band leading the way. Tradition is that they all go to lunch and party, with beer of course.

We were very fortunate to be able to view and participate in this unique Bavarian celebration.  Their customs and traditions are still very much intact.

Bavarian Christkindlmarkts--Fuessen and Kempten

We decided to spend one more day and night in the gorgeous Ammergauer Alpen region of Bavaria. The towns in this region are Oberammergau, Ettal, Unterammergau, Saulgrub, Altenau, Wurmansau, Bad Kohlgrub and Bad Baversoien. 

The Garmisch, Fuessen and Kempten markets are on the list for today.

On our way to Garmisch, we stopped at the grocery store and bought some local Christmas goodies.  We then drove across the street to the Getranken Market (drinks).  We bought some local Ettal Monastery liquor.  When we returned to our car a note was on the driver's door saying that someone would like to buy our car.  Now, really?  Marianne was very suspicious and we quickly drove off.  We felt that someone saw the loot we just bought in the car, tried to open it, and put the note there just in case we saw them trying to get in.

Somehow we got sidetracked in Garmisch.  So, we decide to go to the market in Fuessen.  We drove there via Reutte, Austria.  The road we took went past Linderhof and through the mountains south into Austria.  As a precaution, the road had salt and gravel on it.  We are lucky that it is only drizzling.  In Reutte we stop at a McCafe and enjoy Schwarzwalder kuchen and a cappuccino.  I really do have Marianne convinced that this is the best--and it is.

In Fuessen, we find a handicapped parking space very easily and walk to the Advent Market.  It is small, however, the setting is really pretty--in the courtyard of  Kloster St. Mang.

Market Inside the Abbey's Courtyard

Entrance to Fuessen Weihnachtsmarkt

Stall at Fuessen Market

Just as we entered the square, the church bells started ringing.  The fronts of these stalls are very decorative each one having a different look, or theme.  It is very quaint and festive. It's a very small market of about 30 stalls that is only located within the walls of the former abbey's courtyard.  There are a lot of handcrafted items along with some meats and, of course, gluhwein.



I walk out of the market with an empty gluhwein mug to add to my collection.

On previous trips, I have never been in the Stadtmitte of Fuessen. It was nice to stroll through this small town.  It has several pedestrian-only shopping streets and the buildings are ornate.  At the intersection of several streets stands a very large, live Christmas tree.  I guess it will be lit later in the evening. 

Kempten Market

We locate the A7 Autobahn and head west to Kempten.  Once again in the Stadtmitte (city center) we find a close parking space and walk to the Rathaus.  The entrance is similar to Salzburg with a large sign and lights strung between the buildings.

There are many different items for sale, however, none of the traditional Christmas decorations.  It's interesting how these markets do not carry those items.  They have handcrafted soaps, candles, and wooden ornaments.  Also, leather purses and jewelry made from the local stones (rose quartz, amethyst).  There are a few food stalls with smoked meats, large Christmas cookies and chocolates. The gluhwein stalls do not have a special mug for their Kempten market.  So, I walk out empty handed.  Steve won't believe that! 

Kemptener Weihnachtsmarkt

Kempten Market with Rathaus in Background

Returning to Unterammergau and on the outskirts of town, we stop at Luzia's Stueberl for dinner.  Josef, whom I met on the hill yesterday during my walk, is there with his friends Hans and Sasha (who speaks good English).  After our wiener schnitzel dinner mitt salat und spaetzle, we sit down with them and talk for a while.  Josef and Hans have a sniff of tobacco here and there.  I guess it's something they do in Bavaria, instead of smoking a cigarette. Hans was on his 4th very large beer.  He said he averages 6. I enjoy a small, white beer with lemonade mixed in.  It was actually very good and I don't drink beer. It was nice talking to the locals.  They REALLY enjoy their time in the restaurants and their bier!  We return to the apartment at 11:00 pm. 

We're off  to Munich, for sure, tomorrow.  Have to start heading north for my final night in Rudesheim on Tuesday evening.  Guten Nacht!

Relaxing Day in Unterammergau; Ettal Christmas Market

It is another beautiful, sunny day.  It's actually very warm here for this time of year.  Our hostess, Marianne, said that even if it did snow, it will not last because the ground is too warm.  This area is usually covered with snow by now.  I'm sure Herr Mueller is disappointed because he should be giving sleigh rides by now.

The man of the house is tending to his wood pile.  I took a few pictures of the wood splitting machine he uses.  My dad will like seeing these.

Splitting Firewood

After breakfast, while Marianne used my computer, I took off for a walk in the hills.  There is a walking path right by the house that climbs rather steeply in a wooded area.  Here's the farmhouse from my viewpoint.

Bauernhof (farmhouse) Down Below

                                               

While I was walking, Herr Josef came along in his tractor.

Herr Josef

He knows our hostess, Marianne, and mentions how hard she works on her farm.  Marianne was telling us that the farm house was built 20 years ago.  They owned the land, however, it was hard for them to get permission to build the house on their farm.  The Germans usually live in town and go out to work on their farm. 

We left the house at 1 pm to go to the Ettal Christmas Market.  Our first stop was at the Die Schaukaserei, the Kloster Ettal cheese factory.  The cows at our Bauernhof supply the milk to make the Ettal cheese at this factory.  Of course, I had to buy some.

Marianne drops me off at the market while she attempts to get her computer fixed.  The market has an admission fee of 4 Euros.  Most of the stalls have handcrafted items, a lot of which are for the garden or to decorate outside for Christmas.  I've seen some of the items at previous markets and the prices here are a lot higher.  However, I do find a nice colorful winter scarf for 12.50--of course, it's made in India for that price.  Oh, well, not everything can be made in Germany.

Ettal Christmas Market at the Monastery

A tour of the Basilica is going to begin at 3 p.m. and I take my place among a tour group.  Standing next to me is a tour director.  She said she'll translate the German for me.

Interior of Kloster Ettal Monastery

The Basilica is massive.  Inside, from the floor to the top of the dome, is 17 meters.  The style is Baroque with several paintings on the walls and ceiling. The painting behind the altar is from Italy.  Byzantine Monks live here at the monastery and produce, and sell, their own cheese and beer.  After an introduction to the Basilica by a Monk, an organist and a brass band played Advent songs.  Marianne finds me among the large crowd and afterwards we head back to Unterammergau to eat dinner at Landgasthof Stern.  We each had a great German salad and Jagerschnitzel with a cream sauce for dinner.  It was delicious, however, it was too rich for my stomach.

We return to the monastery, however, we hear only the end of this evening's Gregorian chant.  We get back to the apartment early.  Tomorrow we're on our way to Munich and Augsburg.  I really hate to leave this comfortable apartment.