Innsbruck Christmas Market

Salzburg to Innsbruck Christmas Market

Haus Ballwein, Salzburg

After another wonderful breakfast and our goodbyes to Frau Ballwein, we head south on road #20 towards Kitzbuehl.  We are driving on a red road that goes through the mountains and winds through the towns.  It's nice to get off the autobahn and drive the country roads.  Outside of one town the Polizei are sitting on the side of the road.  In Europe, if you are caught speeding they don't bother to pull you over, they just take a picture of your license and then send you a "love letter".

Kitzbuehl, Austria

Unfortunately, upon our arrival in Kitzbuehl we discover that their market starts at 4 p.m. and it is now 12:30.  We walk through the town and then continue on towards Garmisch.

Goldenes Dachl, Innsbruck

Since Innsbruck is on the way, we divert ourselves to another market.  I am driving and we do o.k. getting to the city center and finding a handicap parking space.  This particular market is in the area of the Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl), Innsbruck.  There are several other markets throughout the city.  I get a cappuccino at McD's and we send a few e-mails on their stand alone computer.  Outside, the market is beginning to get busy as it is getting dark.  It's always more festive at night with the Christmas lights on.  It's a beautifully lit market and has some interesting characters "hanging" around.

This Guy is Hanging Out (Literally)  His Staff Seems to be the Only Thing Touching the Ground
Look up this Trick on You Tube (India yogi) 

A Gentle Giant

Marianne and I bought some beautiful jewelry from a gentleman who lives in Rome.  Each piece is unique using hand picked stones from the area.  He makes necklaces, rings and bracelets.  

There was also some cloisenne ornaments, traditional ornaments and lit up advent stars, and, of course, gluhwein stands.  There were not a lot of stands in this area.  However, there are more markets spread throughout the city.

The lights throughout the market were beautiful.  Many depicted what Innsbruck is famous for--their crystal.  The crystal chandeliers hanging above the streets, the lit up trees, and the crystal formed with lights added a lot of  "sparkle" to the market.  

Returning to the car, we decide to continue to Unterammergau, Bavaria, where I have made reservations starting the night of December 1st.  We are hoping that our rooms are available a day early.  It's a bit of a drive on a red road through the mountains.  We pass Garmisch, Ettal and Oberammergau and, like usual, get lost in the dark.  Our pension is actually a farmhouse on the outskirts of town.  After asking for directions from a resident, we find our way.  At the Innsbruck market, Marianne had enjoyed a bowl of Rosti potatoes and now they are not agreeing with her stomach!

Good, greasy rosti potatoes.  Umm, good!

We literally made it to our rooms just in time. Hope she's better after some rest.

We are staying at a Bauernhof--a farm.  Not sure what kind of farm it is.  I hope they have cows.  I love cows.

They do have cows!

We'll see in the morning where we are.  Our rooms are in an apartment.  We each have our own room with balcony, own bathroom and it's all together with a small kitchen.  Very nice and, of course, cozy with our down comforters and pillows.  There is also a flat screen TV in German, of course.  No, Steve, I'm not going to turn on the TV!

Since Marianne is not feeling well, I'm not going to leave and get dinner.  Our hostess brings me some hot tea, a basket of bread and a plate of wurst & cheese.  She also allows me to get on the farm's internet and I am able to catch up with the family and this blog.  However, now it's time to get some sleep, especially since I didn't sleep well last night.  So, once again, Guten Nacht.

Salzburger Christkindl-Markt

Hans, Marianne and Erika with a Devil Mask on the Door

After a wonderful breakfast, Marianne said she would like to drive into the city and find her friends, Hans and Erika. She hasn't seen them for 10 years. I much prefer the bus as opposed to driving and paying for parking, but she will not consider public transportation. After a while of driving and searching, we find her friends and visit with them in their old, rustic, but very beautiful, home. They speak perfect English and are very proper and friendly. Hans was a consulate for Chile and attained a masters degree at USC at which time he met Marianne's husband, Al.  Erika and Hans are getting their large room upstairs ready for their annual St. Nicholas party.  Devil and Santa masks will adorn the walls. Here is some information on this tradition. 

 

"In Austria a strange and frightening creature, Krampus, is usually with St. Nicholas. This devil figure, often in chains, is dressed in fur with a scarey mask and a long red tongue. Krampus carries a wooden stick or switches to threaten children who misbehave or do not know their lessons."
                              - Saint Nicholas Center; Discovering the Truth About Santa Claus  

As we drive away, Hans waves goodbye.  We had a wonderful visit.

Before we start some serious shopping at the market, we have a lovely lunch at St. Peter's Stiftskeller. The dining rooms are down below in a very old, rustic cellar. The atmosphere was unbelievable and so was our schnitzel with parsleyed potatoes.  We returned to the market with our shopping list in hand.

Lunch at St. Peter's Stiftskeller--a 1,000 Year Old Restaurant

Outside St. Peter Stiftskeller Restaurant

The Salzburg Market is large and beautiful . The stalls have a lot of room around them and are large--filled with a variety of goodies. There are a lot of different wares for sale. 

Puff Pastry Pretzels

The large variety of food looks and smells delicious--Bratwurst, puff pastry pretzels in many flavors (chocolate, cinnamon, etc), and kaiserschmappil which is a waffle chopped up and mixed with nuts, raisins and  a drizzle of chocolate on top.  I had to enjoy this specialty.

Kaiserschmappil

The traditional natural straw Austrian Christmas ornaments, large puff pastry pretzels, Salzburg vinegars and olive oils and, of course, gluhwein is just a sample of what is for sale. There are several booths with glass and painted egg ornaments.  If you can only go to one market, this is the one to go to.  It was lovely.  The prices are also very reasonable. 

Salzburger Christkindl-Markt

At 5 pm we enjoyed listening to a choir sing advent songs in front of the Dom.  There is always something special about beautiful voices singing in such a historical setting.  This is a wonderful treat.  On the other side of the market, there is a small ice skating rink that is open to the stars and the beautiful evening lights of Salzburg. 

Choir Outside of Dom Cathedral

We left Salzburg and decided to search for the Silent Night Chapel which is in the small town of Oberdorf outside of Laufen on the north side of Salzburg. It was not open, however, I took some wonderful pictures of this small, historic church. If you happen to be here on Christmas Eve, you can join a choir singing a song which spread from this very spot to the entire world. The local priest, Josef Mohr, wrote the words in 1816 and Franz Xavier Gruber composed the famous tune two years later. “Silent Night” spread first throughout Europe and then to the United States and the world. 

Silent Night Chapel in Oberdorf

We returned to our pension at 8 p.m.  I was so tempted to take the bus back into town.  However, in the back of my mind I could hear Steve saying "are you sure you can get the last bus back?"  So, instead I went for another late evening walk along Moosstrasse in the 0 degree centigrade cool night.  Frost was forming on the leaves along the walkway, the stars were bright and there were Christmas lights here and there.  Back at the B&B I enjoy sitting outside in the gazebo and hearing nothing but the church bells ring every quarter hour.  

Lovely Tree Lined Moostrasse

Chaos in Nurnberg Before Going to Regensburg Market

Eva's House

We had a bit of a rough start today. Hoping to leave Eva's house by 9:00 and then Nuremburg by 10:00 was wishful thinking. I awoke at 8:45 and Marianne had a lovely breakfast put together. We decided that leaving the house at 9:30 would be good. Then it all began. Marianne could not find her cell phone, make-up kit or gloves. We searched everywhere and could not locate these items. While gathering her stuff to load into the car, she was drying her clothes. We then had to figure out how to open the dryer door--it was not obvious. After several minutes, we were successful!  We then called Eva to try and see if Marianne had left her cell phone in her Audi—no such luck. After searching for a while, we give up. 

With the car finally loaded and locking the home's gate behind us (we don't have a key), we leave for Marianne's bank. However, she must stop in stadtmitte to buy makeup because she can't go in the bank without it. We park, illegally, in front of a Sparkasse bank & Marianne runs off telling me not to leave (11:10) Ten minutes later, an expressionless, female parking guard with black long hair and bangs (looks like the wicked witch from the North) shows up and is inputting the car's license into her hand-held gadget. I try to explain that my friend is in the bank—wish she was! She doesn't believe me and I proceed to start the car and leave. Mind you, I have only moved the car forward and backward in front of Eva's house earlier that day--I haven't driven this stick shift car yet. I put it in reverse hoping that it does go backward and not into the Polizei woman.  I'm successful and  nervously circle around and around the streets hoping that Marianne emerges soon.  I see "the mean female guard" several more times giving me the "eye"—Bitch, I mean Witch! After circling many times, I finally see Marianne looking for me and pull up. She now has to maneuver the city streets and noon traffic to get to her bank before 12 noon at which time they close for lunch for two hours (it's 11:35). We find “her” bank, park the car illegally and she proceeds to walk to the front (11:46). And it's a Sparkasse. She comes out at 12:30 and announces she was successful in withdrawing some money after being hassled about it. That was too close!

Now we have the "moola" but still don't have Marianne's missing "stuff".  We're now thinking of returning to the house to continue our search, however, we're locked out.  I go into a Lidl market to get a coat hanger while Marianne is searching her bags.  Upon my return, she finds her stuff.  Thank goodness.  We can now continue on our trip.  Yeah!!

I get behind the wheel and hit the autobahn (not telling how fast) towards Regensburg.  Driving towards the city center (stadmitte) we make a quick stop at McD's. Yeah—a McCafe!  The McCafes in Europe are so much nicer and offer high quality coffee drinks and pastries at great prices. 

Who could pass this up for 3.99?

Regensburg Market w/Dom in Background

It was Marianne's first time and she loved it. We had a cappuccino with a torte for 3.99 euros. I had a tiramisu torte, Marianne had a apple torte.  Yes, spin buddies, I'm not holding back.

Laser Cut Wood Ornament

Marianne and I at Regensburg Gluhwein Stand

The Regensburg market was lovely. I bought two large, embroidered stars that light up and hang from the ceiling, a Regensburg wooden, cut-out ornament and gluhwein with a mug. 

German Advent Christmas Stars

We then continued driving to Salzburg. It was a long drive going south past Munich and then east towards Vienna. Finding Moosstrasse was quite a feat in the dark and without a GPS, but we made it. Frau Ballwein was gracious as always and our rooms are lovely. It was still early, so I walked in the frosty, cold weather for an hour. Love the cool air on my face. So fresh.  I even had a dog with me for part of my walk.

A Beautiful Day at the Bamberg Christmas Market

I awoke at 9a.m. to the hustle and bustle of the household.  Eva was off to the Backerei to get fresh brotchen.  Yes, a backerei that is open on Sunday!  Marianne was trying to get her computer to work and Matt was helping to put together an Advent breakfast.  We celebrated the first Sunday of Advent by lighting the first of four candles on the Advent wreath that is on the dinner table.  We all enjoyed fresh brotchen, Schinken (ham), emmentaler cheese, a soft-boiled egg, 1/2 grapefruit, homemade jams, stollen and coffee.  I love breakfasts in Germany--what else would you want to eat?

After our meal, we took off (literally) in Eva's Audi A3 to Bamberg.  It's a lovely, sunny day.  On our way to the city, we stopped at a small town on the outskirts where Eva's in-laws had lived.  At a small, Catholic church cemetery, Eva placed and lit an Advent candle along with an Advent wreath on their grave.  Very touching.

Marianne and I in Front of Kloster Michaelsberg

We then made our way towards stadmitte Bamberg.  Our first stop was at St. Martin's Church which is within the walls of a once thriving Monastery.  If you crawl under St. Otto's tomb, you are supposed to be ridden of any pains.  Hope it comes true.  The church and grounds were lovely.

Stadtmitte Bamberg

Eva lived in Bamberg and is a perfect tour guide for the city.  We walked through many streets of the pedestrian-only area and came upon their Christmas market.  In one area by a small church, there were stalls selling all handmade items.  A blacksmith was demonstrating his work and St. Nicholas was making his way around to the children, young and a bit older.

Santa Salami

Further into the city we came upon a large market with many stalls.  Marianne and I bought some spices and herbs at one stall--hope we can bring them home through customs.  I once again enjoy a mug of gluhwein served in a souvenir cup for Bamberg. This gluhwein was better than at Nurnberg--got a bit tipsy from it. There's no wonder why the Germans are hanging onto the counters in front of the gluhwein booths!

Bamberg Market

This market did not have as many Christmas decorations available to buy.  I did buy a ceramic replica of the Michelstadt Rathaus which lights up with a candle. I also bought several Santa Salamis, however, the beagle in the Dallas customs area sniffed these out and I had to release them.  I should have wrapped them better. 

This market was more of a gift purchasing market.  However, it was just as much fun to wander through. 

Dom Cafe

On our way back to the car, we stopped at Cafe Dom and enjoyed kuchen and a latte.  We shared a table with a woman who, as Marianne found out, had been on a tour with a very good friend of hers.  She was a lovely lady who spoke perfect English.

(from left) New Friend, Denise, Marianne and Eva

It got dark quickly and we flew home (140 km/hour) in time to prepare an Advent dinner.  We had a salad, turkey, red peppers w/onions, fresh bread and, of course, red wine.  Okay, Sean, no smart remarks on mom drinking so much wine.  After dinner, Eva's friend, Renate and her daughter came to visit.  The daughter, Inca, plans on traveling to California next summer.  Marianne and I helped her think about where to visit and how to get around.

In the morning, we are on our way back into the city of Nurnberg to do some banking.  Marianne also needs to buy some boots.  Then we're off to Salzburg.  We plan on stopping at Regensburg on the way to see their market.  We have a full day planned.  Guten Nacht!




A special "Thank You" to our hostess, Eva, and her son, Matt, who have been so wonderful and gracious.  We will miss them. 

Lovely Nurnberg Christmas Market

After a restful night, I awake at 11 a.m.  Yes, I haven't adjusted to the time change.  Our hostess, Eva, arrives back home with sausages and pretzels for an early lunch.  Traditionally, you also drink a beer with this meal.  However, we will be driving and walking through the Nurnberg Christmas Market.

Nurnberg Market

Marianne and I return to the market in the early afternoon.  The crowds today remind me of the large crowds Steve and I had in the mid-70s. Definitely more than the night before. We walk into St. ? church and decide to stay and participate in an Advent sing along with the organist in the church.

Old Time Post (Mail) Carriage

Brewing & Serving Gluhwein

Afterwards, we ride in a horse drawn Post carriage on the  streets around the market.  It's now evening and all of the lights, and the smell of brewing gluhwien, are bringing about that special German Christmas ambiance.

At the entrance to the market and in front of the cathedral, a big brass band is playing Advent music.

Having scouted out some of the booths the previous night, I am now ready to make a few special purchases.  I buy a few traditional smokers, small trees with ornaments and a doll for Lauren.

Marianne, Matt and Eva with Advent Wreath

Our hostess, Eva, is back at the house making dinner for us.  Upon our return, the house has the wonderful aroma of a pork roast--my favorite.  We enjoy a dinner together of  a tomato and cucumber salad, the roast with dumplings and carrots.  It was delicious.  Afterwards, we share the chocolate mousse kuchen that Marianne and I bought in town with warm gluhwein.  It's very special to be with a host family that is so warm and friendly. 

Rothenburg ob der Tauber and Nurnberg Christmas Markets

After a good night's sleep and a nice breakfast with great coffee, we headed to Rothenburg on the A6 then A7.  We wanted to get there quickly so that we could continue to Nurnberg for the opening of their market. 

We arrived in Rothenburg in time for the first day of their Christmas market.  It takes place in front of the Rathaus and winds down some back streets.  It was decorated with a big tree in the square and smaller trees around the booths.  Our first stop was for a bratwurst mit brotchen--yum!  

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Returning to our car, we make our way back down the A7 to the A6.  Unfortunately, the traffic, going past our exit and trying to find our way to the stadmitte (city center) delays our arrival and we miss the opening of the Nurnberg market.  

Nurnberg Angel Over the Market

Fountain at Nurnberg Market

However, the crowds have diminished and it's a beautiful evening.  With gluhwein in hand, we stroll the market.  We each have another bratwurst sandwich, however, this one is with the famous Nurnberger bratwurst.  I finish it off with a Nutella and Grand Marnier crepe.  The market, with its lights and church as a backdrop is beautiful.  

Marianne has a good friend, Eva, in Nurnberg and she has invited us to stay with her.  We make our way to her house and celebrate our meeting with a glass of Sekt, German champagne.  Marianne and Eva are good, longtime friends and enjoy re-acquainting.  Matt, 15, also joins in the visit.  Soon, we're all caught up and say "guten nacht".

Arrival in Frankfurt and a Brief Visit to Michelstadt

My flight to and arrival in Frankfurt went smoothly. Steve text me saying that Marianne was 45 minutes behind me. I took the skyline to Terminal 1 and waited 2 hours at the exit for her. Did I miss her?  Then, as she came through the doors, she had an assistant with a folded-up wheelchair and Marianne was pushing a cart full of luggage with a cane across the top—really! Maybe we need a bigger car.  An hour and a half, and the third car later from Avis, we finally, nervously drove off for Michelstadt. 

Michelstadt Rathaus

Marianne loves this village and wanted to show me the town center. It was very lovely with a lot of gabled structures dating from the 1200s. The town was preparing for their small and quaint Christmas Market. We are one day early, however, we enjoyed seeing some of the town's decorations. 

We walked into a T-Mobile store to buy sim cards and again, an hour and a half later, we drove off continuing south towards Heilbronn and the A6. Driving through the small towns, we were looking for somewhere to stay. It's hard searching when it's dark and it gets dark at about 5 pm. I found out that Marianne doesn't prefer hotels—only pensions or gastehauses. We finally got onto the A6, drove for a short distance and then exited onto a red road to continue looking for a pension. Yes, we finally found a gastehaus, checked into our separate rooms and went to their restaurant—hadn't eaten since the plane ride. The food and wine was great. 

Gastehaus Frankenbach in Künzelsau